A leopard gecko needs at least three hides: a warm hide over the heat source, a cool hide at the other end of the tank, and a humid hide filled with damp moss in between for shedding. Each hide should be just big enough for your gecko to fit its whole body inside and touch the walls, with one entrance and a solid roof. In a 40 gallon tank or larger, a fourth hide or extra clutter gives a shy gecko more places to feel safe.
Below is what each hide is for, what size to buy, the best hides by type, where to put them and how to make your own.
How many hides does a leopard gecko need?
| Hide | Where | Temperature | What it's for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm hide | Over the heat mat or under the heat lamp | 90 to 95°F floor | Digesting food and warming up |
| Cool hide | The far end of the tank | 70 to 77°F | Cooling down and sleeping in the day |
| Humid hide | In the middle, between the warm and cool hides | Room temperature, 70 to 80% humidity inside | Shedding, and egg laying for females |
Three is the minimum because your gecko should never have to choose between feeling safe and being at the right temperature. With only one hide, a gecko will often sit in it even when it is too hot or too cold. If your gecko spends all its time in one hide, check the temperatures at both ends with a probe thermometer. Our heat mat guide covers setting up the warm end.
What size hide does a leopard gecko need?
Geckos feel safest in a snug hide. A good fit lets your gecko curl up inside with its back close to the roof.
- Babies and juveniles: a small hide, about 4 to 5 inches across, with an entrance around 1.5 inches wide.
- Adults: a medium hide, about 6 to 8 inches across, with an entrance around 2 inches wide. Large or giant morph adults may need the next size up.
A hide that is too big feels exposed, so your gecko may not use it. If you buy a large hide for a baby, add a small one as well until it grows.
The best hides for leopard geckos
| Type | Good for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Resin rock caves, such as the Exo Terra Gecko Cave | Warm or cool hide | Natural look, heavy enough not to tip, easy to clean | Can't see inside without lifting it |
| 3-in-1 shelters, such as the Zoo Med Repti Shelter | Humid hide | Water dish on top keeps the moss damp, lift-off lid | Plain looking |
| Ceramic caves | Warm hide | Hold heat well, solid and easy to scrub | Can crack if dropped |
| Cork bark | Cool hide or extra cover | Natural, light, good for climbing on | Hard to clean thoroughly, can let light in |
| Plastic tubs, such as a food container with a door cut in | Any, especially humid | Cheap, easy to see humidity, easy to replace | Not pretty, light enough to push around |
If you want a matched set, a reptile hide cave in two sizes covers the warm and cool hides. Most keepers use a 3-in-1 shelter or a tub for the humid hide. See our leopard gecko humid hide guide for what to put in it and how to keep it damp.
Where to put the hides
- Warm hide directly over the heat source. With a heat mat, the hide sits on top of the area the mat covers. With a heat lamp, put it where the floor reaches 90 to 95°F, not right under the bulb.
- Humid hide in the middle. On the hot end the moss dries out in a day, and at the far cool end it can get cold and clammy, so the middle of the tank works best.
- Cool hide at the other end. This gives your gecko a safe place to cool down.
- Press hides into the substrate. Geckos like to dig under things. Bed each hide down firmly so it can't collapse on your gecko.
- Add clutter in between. Plants, cork and rocks let your gecko cross the open middle without feeling exposed.
Our leopard gecko tank guide has a full layout for a 20 and 40 gallon tank.
How to make a leopard gecko hide
A DIY hide works just as well as a shop-bought one.
- Take a plastic food tub with a lid, about 6 inches across for an adult.
- Cut a round entrance about 2 inches wide in the side or lid. Sand or tape the edge so it isn't sharp.
- Turn it upside down for a dry hide, or keep the lid on and add damp moss for a humid hide.
- Cover the outside with a little substrate or a piece of cork bark if you want it to blend in.
Avoid untreated wood or rocks from outdoors unless you clean and bake them first, as they can carry mites and pesticides. Don't use anything with sharp edges or gaps your gecko could get stuck in.
Cleaning hides
Spot clean any droppings when you see them. Every month, wash each hide in hot water with a reptile-safe disinfectant, rinse it well and let it dry before putting it back. Change the moss in the humid hide every one to two weeks, or sooner if it smells or goes mouldy.
Leopard gecko hides FAQ
How many hides does a leopard gecko need?
At least three: a warm hide over the heat source, a cool hide at the other end and a humid hide for shedding. Larger tanks benefit from a fourth hide or extra cover.
What size hide should I get for a leopard gecko?
A hide just big enough for your gecko to fit inside and touch the walls. That is about 4 to 5 inches across for babies and 6 to 8 inches across for adults, with a 1.5 to 2 inch entrance.
Why does my leopard gecko stay in its hide all day?
That is normal. Leopard geckos are most active at dusk and night and spend the day hiding. If it never comes out at night, check the temperatures at both ends of the tank and make sure it has enough hides.
Can a leopard gecko have too many hides?
Not really. More hides and clutter make a gecko feel safer, as long as there is still open floor to walk on. You may just see it less often.
Should the warm hide be on the heat mat?
Yes. Put the warm hide directly over the heat mat so your gecko can warm its belly while it hides. Use a thermostat so the floor stays at about 90 to 95°F.
Is a humid hide the same as a regular hide?
No. A humid hide has a lid and is filled with damp moss or paper towel so the air inside stays humid for shedding. A regular hide is dry.
Setting up for a new gecko? See our leopard gecko starter kit checklist for everything else you need.